Zheltovski says she’s noticed an improvement in her own nails since she started exclusively getting Russian manicures. “My cuticle and nail plate look better when I have consistent appointments,” she says. “Once you try a Russian manicure, there is no going back to a regular gel manicure.”

Russian manicure risks: Is it safe?

While there are a number of aesthetic benefits to the technique, Dr. Stern notes that these can come at a risk. “The main benefit is that the polish is applied under the proximal nail fold, which allows for the manicure to last longer than a typical manicure. With that said, the reason they are able to apply the polish under the fold is because they have created a breach in the protective membrane, a.k.a. the cuticle,” she says.

Dr. Stern has seen a few infections pop up online. “Many of the images that I have seen on social media that are posted to flaunt beautiful nails in fact show nails with evidence of chronic paronychia. While the polish may look impeccable, to the trained eye I see signs of infection: puffy, pink, swollen nail folds.”

Zheltovski believes that the technique itself is not necessarily to blame, so long as you see an experienced technician. “If done properly, with sterilized tools and by a professional who has taken classes, the Russian manicure is a safe technique which has lots of benefits,” she says. “The only risk is if you get nail technician who has a lack of education of this technique or is not sterilizing tools properly. It’s not about a technique, an e-file machine, or sharp scissors. It’s about who does it.”

What to know before getting a Russian manicure

“Educate yourself on the process, the price, and the commitment. A Russian-style manicure typically costs more than a simple gel manicure and takes more time too,” says Fronce. “It typically takes me one, two hours to perform a Russian-style manicure with builder gel.”